The Wind Rises. May in Dali: A Few Things About Rice Fields and Gentle Breezes

Every day in Dali, as long as there's blue sky and sunshine, I love looking up at the sky. It's May in the human world, spring is bright and clear. Basking in the spring light, conversing silently with the quiet moments of Shaxi. My heart is like white clouds, my thoughts like flowing water. Being alone with myself, at the end of time is peace of mind. Spring is not yet old, poetry and wine while youth lasts.
After being cooped up for months by the pandemic, I'd even climb to the rooftop just to snap a couple shots of the sunset over the city. The moment the thought of traveling within China popped into my head, Dali was the first place I thought of. I've been to Yunnan nine times. In autumn, Tengchong's ginkgo leaves blanket the ground. In summer, Meili sees snow in June. Everyone talks about Lijiang's endless charm, but Dali is still my favorite. I checked flights—round trip from Chongqing to Dali was over a thousand, but to Lijiang only three hundred. Thanks to the pandemic, lots of guesthouses were dirt cheap. I booked a round trip to Lijiang immediately, rented a car online. I'd heard Baisha was quiet and ancient, heard Shaxi carried the rings of history. So I'd drive slowly, taking back roads, heading to places few people go. When you turn your back to Cangshan, face Erhai, wander the old town first, lose yourself in the fishing villages, and let time drift by—that's when you understand why so many people want to go to Dali. In the fields of Xizhou, rice and wheat in green bloom, May days among the clouds.
Xizhou
Warm summer sun, a pot of tea, and you lose track of time in the mountains.
Xizhou
Bai architecture—the courtyard walls are all quite tall.
Xizhou
In Dali, even six in the evening isn't too late for sunshine.
Shuanglang Ancient Town
Monet's painting, wildflowers spilling across the hills.
Baisha Ancient Town
Drunk, I lose track of sky and water—a boat full of clear dreams pressing down on the starry river.
Xizhou
When you go to Dali, you absolutely must drive yourself. Maybe somewhere along the way you'll stumble on a scene that makes the whole trip worth it.
Shaxi Ancient Town
On the left, steep green ridges stacked one after another. On the right, the deep and romantic charm of Erhai.
Shuanglang Ancient Town
There's a glass house transparent on all four sides, humming "I want to go wandering," reaching out at night to a sky full of stars.
Xizhou
See? Surprises always come when you least expect them.
Shuanglang Ancient Town
When you arrive in Shaxi, you'll find it's as if this place took a nap in the long river of time, carrying us across a thousand years, back to the days of hoofbeats on ancient roads.
Shaxi Ancient Town
Wake up early, climb to the rooftop to soak in the sun. The puffs of white cloud are so lovely.
Xizhou
The quiet of Xizhou is a quiet you can't even imagine.
Xizhou
Living by the water, clouds rise and fall.
Shuanglang Ancient Town
Autumn scenery in summer, soft wheat fields and sunlight.
Baisha Ancient Town
Water stretching a thousand acres opens the sky's mirror, mountain colors ringed in green through all four seasons.
Haishe Ecological Park
Lying on gray-white tile rooftops, holding fireworks, gazing at the stars—is that the life you want too?
Xizhou
Heading West, to Dali
The pandemic wasn't over yet. Staff wore protective suits, passengers all wore masks, and the flight was unexpectedly full. I grabbed a copy of Zhang Jiajia's *There's a Convenience Store by the Clouds* from the airport shop. Flipped a couple pages, didn't really like it—just something to pass the time. That deliberately sorrowful, tragic kind of novel—maybe I'm just getting older and prefer lighter, happier reads.
Chongqing Jiangbei International Airport
Landed at Sanyi Airport, a chill hit me, scattered drizzle in the air. This was my third time in this city of wind and moonlight. Dragging my suitcase through layer after layer of green code checks and temperature screenings, the first thing I thought of when I walked out was handmade yogurt.
Lijiang Sanyi Airport
Dali is perfect for renting a car because most of the scenery is on the road. If you don't drive around the western ring road—Erhai on your left, rice fields on your right—you've wasted your claim of having been to Dali. With this fuel-efficient, comfortable little Corolla, I could slow down, take in the scenery along the way, reach small towns few people visit, waste an entire afternoon over a slow coffee. Wherever I wanted to stay, I stayed.
Lijiang Sanyi Airport
Once all the paperwork was done, off I went. Because it's Dali, even the drizzle didn't dampen my mood one bit. This route was pretty off the beaten path—I wanted to find quiet little towns, slow life down, more scenery, fewer crowds, spend my time among rice fields and mountains. So I didn't plan to stop in Lijiang city proper. Went straight to Baisha Ancient Town. Forty minutes' drive, via the Dali-Lijiang highway, arriving before dark at this secluded little town. Opened the window—the raw smell of cow dung hit me, mixed with the scent of green grass in the air. After a few winding turns down narrow lanes, I found the Boregni guesthouse I'd been looking forward to.
Baisha Ancient Town
The owner held an umbrella and led us to the parking spot. The owner's wife cooked up steaming hot rice noodles. Lights came on in the small courtyard. A few cats huddled by the stove. Yeah, this is the kind of warmth I like.
Baisha Ancient Town
The owner's wife's carefully arranged fruit platter.
Baisha Ancient Town
Raindrops pattered into the pool. On a day like this, all I wanted was to burrow under the covers. May in Dali is really cold—felt like winter again. Good thing the room had heating and an electric blanket, sealed up tight against the draft.
Baisha Ancient Town
On rainy nights, I like going to bed early, lying by the window listening to the wind and rain, armored horses and frozen rivers entering my dreams—the armored horse is you, the frozen river is you too. The soft hours of the Naxi ancient kingdom.
The next morning, I was woken by the patter of rain. In my dreams, the small town saw rain, flowers blooming, wind rising, frost forming—even the smell of sweet potatoes drifting by. Breakfast was stir-fried rice noodles and plain congee, a bottle holding freshly picked flowers, sweet crisp corn. The owner keeps three cats and a dog. The dog's named Dimple, loves competing with the cats for attention, won't eat dog food, prefers cat food. When guests want to explore the old town, Dimple happily leads them out. The cat's named Ballball—has a Garfield face on a British Shorthair body. Eats like a proper lady. Because her face is so flat and round, every bite smears her whole face, so she takes a bite, licks her fur, takes a bite, licks her fur. Checked the forecast—rain all day. So I lazily finished breakfast, figured I'd lie around first, head to the old town in the afternoon.
Baisha Ancient Town
Baisha Ancient Town
Lying by the window listening to rain—even on a gray day, you can find your own leisure. At times like this, I'm especially glad to have a book to get me through the long hours.
Baisha Ancient Town
Baisha Ancient Town
Drops falling from the eaves like pearls.
Baisha Ancient Town
Baisha Ancient Town
Smelling the wind, listening to the rain, spent the whole morning lounging in the courtyard. After lunch, borrowed an umbrella from the owner, walked about ten minutes to the old town. Three trips to Lijiang, and every time before I'd gone to the lively Shuhe Ancient Town—bars lit up red and green, night markets swarming with people. This time, I'd rather experience an ancient Lijiang, a quiet Lijiang without commercialization. Time in Baisha is slow time. The people here go about their daily chores at their own pace, keeping to traditional ways.
Baisha Ancient Town
Walking on stone-paved paths, strolling leisurely through old streets. An old woman sitting in a courtyard corner, a craftsman carving wood paintings, young artists doing handicrafts. In the distance, snow-capped Jade Dragon Mountain shrouded in mist and clouds, interwoven with weathered ancient alleys. No hurried footsteps—just time flowing back and forth.
Baisha Ancient Town
Baisha Ancient Town
Visiting small shops—there's almost none of the usual old-town music in the streets. More restaurants and artsy spots. Vendors at antique shops and tie-dye shawl stalls sit together playing cards, seemingly unfazed by how many tourists come or how business is