Only Mount Emei: One More Reason to Go Back

I’d already been to Mount Emei more than once or twice, but it was Because of *Only Mount Emei* that I decided to go again—and this time, I brought my daughter along. This trip happened right before the pandemic hit. The news about Wuhan going into lockdown broke while we were still up on the Golden Summit. Heading up the mountain, it felt like nothing had changed; by the time we came down, you couldn’t find a face mask anywhere in town. That alone made it a trip I’ll never forget.
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**Suggested Itinerary**
For me, Mount Emei doesn’t really need a detailed guide. As a national 5A scenic area, it’s been polished to near perfection. If it’s your first visit, just sketch out a rough plan—booking tickets, hotels, and transport online is easy, and finding food along the way is a breeze. Here’s an itinerary I’d recommend if you’re traveling with kids, or if you want a relaxed, efficient way to see the mountain. (If you’re into hiking, this isn’t for you.)
**Day 1: Chengdu → Mount Emei**
Stay: Mount Emei Grand Hotel (near Baoguo Temple)
Evening: Watch *Only Mount Emei*
Driving from Chengdu to Baoguo Temple takes about two hours. The high-speed rail is just as convenient, with frequent departures—the fastest runs take just over an hour. The Emei station is only a few kilometers from Baoguo Temple, so a taxi costs around 10–15 yuan, and there are public buses too. I’d suggest arriving early in the afternoon on Day 1, then heading to the *Only Mount Emei* theater for the 6 PM show—it’s a short ten-minute cab ride from the hotel.
**Day 2: Baoguo Temple → Leidongping → Golden Summit**
Stay: Golden Summit Grand Hotel
Wake up the next morning and walk over to Baoguo Temple for a quick look, then grab a ticket at the Baoguo Temple station for the bus up to Leidongping. The ride takes about two hours, winding along steep mountain roads—if you get carsick, take some motion sickness medicine beforehand. Once at Leidongping, you’ll walk about thirty minutes to Jieyin Hall, where you can catch the cable car up to the Golden Summit. If you’re staying overnight up top, leave your luggage at the hotel down below—just bring the essentials. The path to Jieyin Hall is all stairs, so rolling suitcases only work if you take the road, which adds a bit of distance. The Golden Summit Grand Hotel sits right next to the cable car station—you can’t miss it. It’s one of the better options up there. Once you’ve dropped your bags, don’t waste time resting—if the weather’s clear, head straight to the top. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the sea of clouds, the Buddha’s halo, and sunset all in one go. Even if it’s foggy, don’t give up—mountain weather changes fast, especially in summer, when you can cycle through several conditions in a single day.
**Day 3: Golden Summit → Leidongping Ski Area & Kids’ Zone → Baoguo Temple → Chengdu**
On the third day, if the weather cooperates, get up early for sunrise. Sunrise at the Golden Summit is always a lively affair—no matter the fog or rain, there’s always a crowd huddled under the eaves of the Golden and Silver Summits, eyes fixed on the eastern horizon. If you’re lucky, you’ll get the full trifecta: sunrise, sea of clouds, and Buddha’s halo. On clear days, you can also see Mount Dawa and Mount Gongga to the west—it’s a breathtaking viewing platform. After soaking it all in, spend a bit more time up top, then start heading down. We went in winter, so there was still snow at Leidongping—perfect for the kids. They even have a dedicated “Kids’ Wonderland” at the ski area, tailor-made for little ones. Leidongping also has plenty of food options, including a small hotpot spot at the ski resort. Burn some energy, grab lunch, and keep playing. From Leidongping, you can take a bus straight back to the high-speed rail station or your hotel parking lot, then head home.
This route covers the classic Mount Emei experience without dragging on, lets you reach the summit comfortably, and hits all the highlights.
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**Mount Emei in Winter**
Everyone photographs Mount Emei in their own way, but I’ve always loved it in winter, when the snow blankets everything. This season isn’t typically considered the best time to visit—most guides point to May for azaleas, June through August for escaping the heat, and October to November for autumn leaves. But if you want to dodge the crowds and quietly soak in the scenery, winter is the way to go.
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**Golden Summit Cloud Sea**
The Golden Summit’s golden Buddha is a gilded bronze statue, 48 meters tall and weighing 660 tons, made up of a pedestal and the Ten- Direction Samantabhadra figure. The 48-meter height symbolizes Amitabha’s forty-eight great vows. The pedestal alone is 6 meters high and 27 meters on each side, carved with Samantabhadra’s ten great practices and vows. Adorned with granite reliefs, the 42-meter, 350-ton Samantabhadra statue is a masterpiece of casting—flawless in design and execution, a true marvel with immense cultural and artistic value, born from the collaboration of artists across the strait.
The earliest structure on the summit dates back to the Eastern Han’s Puguang Hall, later renamed Guangxiang Temple in the Tang and Song dynasties. In the Ming’s Hongwu era, Master Baotan rebuilt it as the Iron Tile Hall, while the Tin and Copper Halls were founded by Master Biechuan. The Golden Hall itself was a bronze structure built by Master Miaofeng during the Wanli period, named “Yongming Huazang Temple” by the emperor. The name “Golden Summit” comes straight from this Golden Hall.
The best thing about such a well-developed scenic area is its convenience—you can even buy grilled sausages up at the summit.
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**Cloud Sea at Dusk**
As evening falls, the sea of clouds rolls out below. Mount Dawa and Mount Wawu rise above it like islands in the sky.
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**Xiaomeng’s First Mount Emei Trip**
Marking Xiaomeng’s first visit to Mount Emei—2020, a year worth remembering.
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**Leidongping’s Winter Wonderland**
The weather on the summit wasn’t great on our second day, so we took the cable car back down to Leidongping. The contrast was stark: the summit was shrouded in fog, while Leidongping was a full-on ice and snow paradise.
Walking down snowy stairs with a small child is no easy task, so we took the road instead. The scenery along the way was lovely—I remember taking a “fake Hokkaido” photo on that very road four years ago.
Leidongping’s snow play area has plenty for kids beyond skiing. Every year, they set up a dedicated “Kids’ Wonderland” designed specifically for children. Xiaomeng had a blast—though she was especially hooked on this little scooter thing and refused to leave after a full hour.
Here’s the pricing for the ski area. Adults can head to the actual ski slopes.
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**One Last Taste Before Leaving**
We played until the afternoon and made our way near the high-speed rail station. Before heading home, we had to stop for two local specialties: tofu pudding and *ka* (stuffed flatbread).
Emei’s tofu pudding is a must.
Every time I visit Leshan or Mount Emei, the food alone is worth the trip. Braised beef, tofu pudding, barbecue, spicy malatang, sweet-skinned duck—the list goes on. Maybe I’ll dedicate a separate post to it someday.